 AU SABLE SKUNK DRY FLY TYING RECIPE: Hook : Size 10 dry fly hook Tail:.calf tail Body : Black Dubbing Wing: Deer Hair Legs: Rubber Legs Wing : Dry Fly Hackle Hello, lovely people. Welcome back to another Quickie with Tim. I am Tim Hepworth from Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters and Thursday Night Live Fly Tying. We want to thank you for joining us tonight. Also wanna thank Rocky Mountain Fly Shop for sponsoring this. Remember, every order over $99 ships for free. We're gonna be working on this guy here today, the Au Sable Dry Skunk. Let's get rocking. We're gonna be tying this on a size 10 dryly. If you remember last week's quick tie, we did the Michigan Skunk Fly. Both of these are sisters to each other and There's slight variations. The original, it's got foam probably gonna float a little better. But I'm telling you what, you're gonna wanna work on these two cuz they're something special. Okay. I'm time with some UTC 70 in black today. Okay. I am going to get my thread started just behind the eye. I'm gonna work it back slightly. I'm gonna go ahead and trim out that tag. Now, the original pattern calls for some caftail, but this is a much easier product to work with and just as good in my opinion and as far as appearance. But we have Antron Yarn. So it's a lot easier to work with. Um, don't have to stack it, don't have to do anything like that. So I'm just gonna start it up like that near the. I'm gonna kind of, this is just using this to create a little bit of a bulk in the underbody. I'm gonna take it back to just before the bend. If I lay down my thread, if it's sitting at the back of the barb, it's kind of telling you you're just about there. Now I'm gonna trim this out to form a tail that's roughly half of a hook shank in length, out the back. Trim that off. You can see it pops up really nice.
We'll set that aside. Now this version starts off with, instead of using foam, we're gonna go straight to our dubbing, And we are gonna work our dubbing forward. So you got a whole huge clump of this black dubbing. We're not using very much of it, just a light amount. We're gonna create a little dubbing noodle. Try to create this to be tight noodle as well as an even one. So we want a nice even underbody to this fly. we need to start with it on our dubbing noodle. That's where it all starts. We need to keep that nice and even. The underbody that we want. So just gonna do some touching wraps forward. Okay? We're gonna work that forward, leaving ourselves about a third of the head to work with still. I wanna leave myself a little bit of space because we have some stuff to put up at the front still. Okay? So that's where I'm gonna leave my fly or starting my thread currently now. When we go on this next portion, we're gonna be working some deer hair. Okay. So deer hair. We've been working with it quite a bit now. just be patient with yourself with this stuff, especially this type of deer hair we're putting on dryly is often quite fine. It might wanna move around on you a little bit. It might wanna flare more than you want it to. Just understand that it's not always perfect. The trout probably doesn't care that much about it. It's more for aesthetics, what we think. I just clipped off a little clump off of the patch. I'm gonna try to get All the little furries out from underneath the under fur. Okay. As you can see, I like to come back and just place it on my fly right at the start, before I start stacking it. Is that a correct amount? I think I've got a decent clump here. I think it's gonna be a good amount. I'm gonna go over to my hair stacker, use my SHOR fishing hair stacker. I've got a couple of different sizes. This is my small one. I like the small one for this finer hair. I'm gonna give it a stack. Now I'm gonna leave the base of it down towards the back of the fly. So when I pull this out, my tips are lined up in the right direction that I'm gonna tie in. Now I'm gonna come in and pinch that against my thumb, my forefinger, and get that out. I'm gonna pull out any more little fluffies that are hanging out there. Now this is where it can get fun, cuz you're gonna be switching back and forth with your hands a little bit. So I wanna measure a wing that basically extends halfway back into that Antron Tail. So you switch hands a few times, get a good pinch on it, and gauge where you want it to be. Think that's where I want it. Okay, so I'm gonna switch hands one more time, but it's important that I pinch really firmly here and don't let the hair, when I secure it, spin around the hook shank, cuz that's not what I want. Okay? So I'm gonna do a nice gathering wrap right up over top of that hair. I'm gonna do another one. Okay? I'm not pulling tight yet. I'm gonna build a couple of wraps. And then I'm gonna start pulling tighter. Now you're gonna see that hair wants to flare right away. We need to use the butts of that hair. Okay? So it's okay that it flares, but we need to gather it back up. So now I'm gonna switch hands. This is kinda the complicated part cuz this hair is quite fine. It'll even tear on you, but I'm gonna gather it in my front hand, making sure this is secure first, okay, that I can let go of the back. But I need all of these gathered first. Now I need to work my thread forward. Over top of that hair. So I'm just gonna hold the hair as I do it. And once it starts, I'm pulling upwards cause I want all that hair to stay right on top of the hook shank. Once I get to here, give it a good tug, it'll probably flare again on me, and then I'm gonna work that space in between putting some thread wraps down. Okay, now this is similar to like an Elk hair caddis when you build A bit of a head or kind of a, you know, it almost just works like a skating fly, almost like a gurgler.
You want a bit of a head on this created by the hair. It's gonna help it float, it's gonna help you be able to see it good as well. So I'm gonna come in here and I'm gonna run my scissors up, leaving myself a little bit of a bulky head. Okay, now if I wanna shorten that up I can still trim that later, but I can't add hair back on, so don't cut it too short the first time. From here, I'm gonna go ahead and get my rubber legs. So we're gonna put two per side. So I'm gonna split that off there. I've got two of these white rubber legs. You could use barred legs, whatever, but the pattern calls to these white ones. So that's what we're gonna use here. I'm gonna make sure they're nice and even. And then I'm gonna tie two of them on the far side of the fly just kind of evenly splitting them. I'm gonna get those ones secured first. A few wraps. So it Stays in place and I can still maneuver them if I have to. Then I'm gonna grab my other two again, make sure they're split and then line them up. This'll go on the near side of the fly towards me.Now tension is the name of the game here. If you go too tight, right off the hop, you do things like what I just did there and get some of that hair that you want to use caught in there. So you gotta be a little delicate with it. Take a couple wraps and then move them to where you want them. Make sure they're kind of evenly spread. And now I want to fill in that space. So I need to put thread wraps all over in that space, cuz I'm gonna put some hackle in here after this. So I need to make sure that I pull that hair down. I wanna secure the legs all the way back to the deer here, and I wanna secure those legs all the way forward To the edge of the hair at the front. But what's important here is I have a good thread base laid down for my hackle to sit on. So what you should be left with right now is something that looks just like this, okay? All the hair should be up on top. We got our nice tail. Our legs are tied on both sides. A good head on it. Now we're gonna go to our hackle. So choosing it, choosing the appropriate hackle for this, it can be a little tricky. You want something that's gonna give it a bit of height. You don't wanna super oversize the hackle because then it's gonna kind of take away from what the fly actually is. So I'm cleaning off the base of the stem. I'm gonna tie it in from the base. I'm gonna leave the underside of the feather pointed back and down the fly. I'm gonna secure that stem right in front of that hair. Take a few thread wraps to kind of bind it down in both directions. We don't want that going anywhere. And you see that I took some wraps forward down into that space cuz I'm gonna wanna wrap material over it as well. I'm gonna go ahead and just trim out that tag. Now I am gonna end up whip finishing this fly or half hitching this fly right up the start. I need to leave my thread at the front of that gap cuz that's where I'm gonna finish this. I am gonna use my hackle pliers so I can hold onto this a little better. And then we just want some nice even wraps going back over top. Now just take it nice and slow. You wanna fill up as much of that space with the hackle as you can, cause that's gonna help this fly float even better. But you also don't wanna wrap on top of the previous wrap, so take your time making sure you hold the previous wrap outta the way. I'm gonna re-secure that again. So that's the point here. I'm talking about guys not pulling too hard. These hackle feathers can be quite delicate. We don't want to tear 'em. So you're gonna get three to four, maybe five at most. Wraps on here before you come in and secure it. We've gotta do that same wrap behind, wrap in front. Make sure we secure it down if we can let go of it with our hackle pliers, and I'm gonna try to dry all the material back and get a few wraps right there. Make sure it's good and tight. Now before I do anything else, I wanna finish this fly off with, with a half hitch. So you've seen me use it before I've got my half hitch tool. It could be anything. If you want to grab even your whip finisher, you can see they’re designed one on the base of that same with your bodkin. What this does, it helps me work around this head because I'm gonna basically push that head up with the tool and get my thread to follow underneath. So I place my tool there, and I wrap it once, twice. I need to find the hook eye with my tool and then slide those wraps off and down. We'll do it one more time. It's a great way of finishing dry flies. It's good and secure. You can still add some resin if you like. Now come in here and trim out your thread without trimming any of your hackle if you can. Then all we have left to do is trim out that stem. I'm gonna adjust my legs slightly in length, so I want my front to be slightly shorter. Then my back too. But again, like hair, you can't add the rubber back on, so don't cut it too short. I want my back legs to be extended to about The base of the tail and the front ones I kind of just gauge by my back ones. So once I've clipped the back ones, I'll come back forward and take just a smidge more off my front. There you have it guys. That is your Au Sable Dry Skunk. Great pattern to try out. Both the Au Sable Dry Skunk , and the Michigan dry skunk come from the same place. Little bit of different variations on each of them. Again guys, this is Tim Hepworth with Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters, and Thursday Night Live Fly Tying. We want to thank Rocky Mountain Fly Shop. Remember, every order over $99 ships for free!
AuthorTim Hepworth @timothyhepworth  MICHIGAN SKUNK DRY FLY TYING RECIPE: Hook: Gamakatsu S10 #10 Thread:Uni 6/0 – Black Tail:Kip/Calf Tail Body:Ice Dub – UV Black Foam:2 MM Black Under wing:Krystal Flash – Pearl Wing:Deer Body Hair – natural Legs:Round Rubber Legs – Medium – White Welcome back everyone. My name's Tim Hepworth. We're here with Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters and Thursday Night Live Fly Tying And I'm here to bring you another quick tie. Today we're tying the Michigan Skunk Dry. We wanna thank Rocky Mountain Fly Shop for sponsoring this quick tie and bringing it all to you guys. I will be tying out of my season five kit today. You still wanna grab one of these? You just go ahead over to our website. You pick one up today at www.flyfishingbowriver.com/tnlS5. Well, without further delay, let's head over that vice and, let's get started. As you see here, the Michigan skunk dry, if you're getting skunked fish this dry. Let's grab that size 10. Dry Fly hook. Get it in that vice. Firm it up. Make sure it's level. You want to hear the ping? The ping is good. You're ready to go. Slide on over to that thread of yours and let's get some black UTC 70 to tie this fly, slip that thread under the hook shank. And get it going. One wrap at a time. Back down the hook shank. Reach on over to those scissors and snip out the tag. Now when you're ready, you grab that first material. It's gonna be some antron yarn, slick white, and ready to be a tail. I'm gonna come in here, trim it off clean. Set that right on that hook Shank. Get that gathering wrap. Couple of 'em in fact, and then slide it back. Let's take a few securing wraps back down that hook shank, all the way to the bend.
Now if that's too fast for you, I want you to take a moment and slow it. Grab those scissors again. Come in here, measure half that hook shank and trim it off just like that. Now we're gonna reach over to that 2mm black foam. I'm just gonna snip a little pointy bit into the end. We'll lay that on our hook shank with our thread started just behind the eye, and let's get it secured right on top of the hook, shank, one wrap ahead of time, all the way back to the bend. And then let's go ahead and secure that. Give it a little tug. Make sure it's secure. Now from here, we're gonna reach on over to that black dubbing. We're gonna make ourselves a short little noodle on our thread. Take a little wisp secured onto that thread. As tight as you can as to not make too thick of a body. Now let's advance that forward with some touching wraps. When we get to the two-thirds mark, up the hook shank, we should have run outta dubbing Now grab that phone, flop it down on top. Gather it with a wrap pinch on top and give it a snug little tug. Now we'll just advance the thread on top of the foam down to the head. Secure nut, not phone. Once more, just like so. Now let's grab a piece of crystal flash. Fold it over a couple times, giving yourself a few more individual pieces. Do it once and again. Do it twice. Now let's take that crystal flash. And lay it down the back and tie it in. Secure the butts of the crystal flash into that opening you created for length. Let's extend that just beyond the back of the foam.
Now we're gonna grab our deer hair. We're gonna take a small little chunk about half of a pencil width and snip it off the patch. Now reach on over to your hair stacker, get the tips put in first. And give it a little tap. And when the hair comes out, we want it pointed back down the fly. If your tips are aligned and ready to go, let's set it on top of the crystal. To the same length. Switch hands and secure it down. First wrap is loose, second is tighter, and so on. Get some wraps through the butts, securing it all the way down. Now while you're still holding that there, let's come in and trim everything. Nice and short, without cutting your thread. Once you've completed that, let's get a few more wraps covering up the butts of the. You can now let go of the deer hair and see your wing. Let's go ahead and grab our rubber legs and get two pulled off. Align the tips. Let's set them right in that gap in front of the hair and take a nice loose securing wrap before separating them onto the near and the far side of the fly. This is what we want it to look like. Now. I'm gonna secure those rear legs. Right back against the hair. We're very close to finishing up the fly. If you have any little hairs that are out on their own, should be a good time to get them outta the way. Now, once again, we're gonna go over to that dubbing. We're gonna start by bringing our thread forward to just in front of the hair. Let's make another short dubbing noodle with a wisp of that dubbing. Again, a nice tight dubbing. The first couple wraps will be in front of the legs, and then a couple in between to finish it off, the last step will be to bring that foam back and pull it over, and that's finish off with a bullet. A few wraps should do before sniping out the foam and whip finishing the fly. A two to three turn whip finish should suffice. Once that's pulled tight, we'll clip out our thread and all that's left is to trim our legs, trim to a desired length, leaving the front legs slightly shorter than the back. And there you have it, folks. The Michigan Skunk Dry. Thank you for joining me, Tim Hepworth with Fly Fishing and Bow River Outfitters, and Thursday Night Live Fly Tying.
AuthorTim Hepworth  BEAD HEAD WOOLY BUGGER Fly Tying Recipe: Hook: Daiichi 2220 #4 Bead : To fit hook Thread: Black 3/0 Monocord Weight: Lead Wire Tail: Black Marabou Rib: Brassie Sized copper wire Body: Medium Olive Chenille Hackle: Black Rooster Saddle Everybody. Welcome back to another quick tie here with Tim Hepworth with Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters, and Thursday Night Live Fly Tying. We want to thank Rocky Mountain Fly Shop for bringing this quick tie to you guys today. We're gonna be tying up the wooly bugger today. The bead head, wooly bugger. All right, let's move on over to the vice. Go ahead and get your bead and your hook put together. Remember, you need to probably mash down that barb to get this bead on the hook shank. So go ahead and do that, and then get it fixed in your vice good and secure. Before we put any thread on this hook, I'm gonna grab a little bit of this lead wire that's in your kit. We're not gonna use a whole bunch. More. What I like to use this for is to seed that bead up against the top there. So I'm just gonna grab a piece here, do a few wraps, nothing too crazy. I'll use up this wire just cuz I've got it on there, but that was about a two inch piece. Nothing too wild. We're not trying to cover all the way down. This will build a nice little taper up to the head as well. But more than anything, we like this to shove up into that bead and hold that bead in place. So it's not gonna go anywhere. Once we do some tie. So what I'm using today is I'm using some UTC 140 and this kind of bronzey, dark brown color. Anything dark is gonna work just fine. I'm gonna get my thread started just behind those lead wraps. Okay. I'm gonna put a few thread wraps down, trim out that tag, and then I'm just gonna work a nice thread base okay. Up onto that wire, making sure it doesn't move anywhere and down into the bend. So don't have to perfectly cover everything up.
It's more about that lead not moving. Then let's head on back to where that Barb used to be. I'm just gonna spin my thread and cord up my thread a little bit. I come forward a little. We don't want to be down into the bend, we just want to be at the edge of the bend. So I'm gonna go about there witht the first material we're gonna stick in. There is gonna be a piece of maribou. So grab one of the pieces of maribou you got outta your kit if you're tying out the kit. So the traditional way of tying this, I'm gonna pull all of this down until I get to those. You can tell there's a different density and the tip of the maribou, although I like it and I leave it on when I'm gonna be fishing, we're gonna tie this kind as traditional as we can. So I'm gonna come in here, I'm gonna use my scissors not to cut, but to push my thumb against the material and try to tear All of those off. So I do that and what I'm left with is just more the puffy portion of the tips instead of that more fine tip. Okay, so now what we're gonna do is we're gonna size this guy up. We want it to be roughly a full hook shank and length as our tail. So somewhere right about there, measured off the front. I'm gonna translate that back to there. Switch over my hand. Get a nice thread wrap down and now I'm just gonna work some thread wraps forward, making sure that stays in place. And I'm gonna try to trim this off right about where that lead wrap stops. It's gonna create that nice little taper for me, like a little ramp right up to there. I'm gonna come in here. Work the rest of the base of that feather into there and then bring this back forward. Okay, now that I'm back on the back of the fly, I'm gonna go ahead and grab this copper wire we have in our kit. Okay. A nice long piece here. This is why we're gonna actually affix our hackle Up the fly here momentarily. So I wanna make sure that's good and secure. I'm doing it on the near side of the fly towards myself. Just gonna have it sitting back and outta the way. Now I'm gonna tie in some Chenille. So you got some of this olive colored Chenille there. Obviously there's so many variations to color you could do on this. You could use cactus Chenille, you could use this Verigated Chenille, whatever it is, your dealer's choice. We're gonna use some Chenille to wrap up here. So I've just corded out and exposed the cord that is in the middle of the Chenille. Okay? And I'm gonna get that spin my thread towards my hand as we know that causes my wrap to jump rearward. I'm gonna secure that down and I'm gonna take my thread all the way forward up to the bead. I'm gonna do a little half hitch there. I am gonna grab Chenille and Palmer it forward doing touching wraps.
Okay. Trying to keep as even underbody as possible. Not super crucial, but. Just for the appearance of the pattern. Gonna work that all the way forward, right to the bead. Okay? I'm not gonna worry about leaving too much space there, cuz this Chenillie will compress as I put thread wraps on it. Secure that Chenille in with your thread. Then we can go ahead and trim that out, okay? Get rid of that. I'm gonna take a few more thread wraps just to make sure that little butt end of the Chenille gets secured and it's not gonna go anywhere. I really only have one more material to put on. And a lot of times in streamers, we put the hackle on the back and work it forward. We're actually doing it in reverse. Okay. So we're gonna put the hackle in up here at the front and put it back. And then allow our wire to secure to bring it forward. So I've got some saddle hackle. You can have bugger hackle, whatever you want. You kinda appropriate the size, depending, it doesn't really matter. It can be a little bit bigger at the top of the fly. So what I like to do is I come in here, I'm gonna grab the fluffies off the hackle and pull 'em outta the way. I don't wanna work with those. this time we're gonna tie it in by the butt end because we are starting at the front of working back. We want it to taper. So my, the fibers of this hackle are longer at the butt section, so we'll tie it in that way first, as most as always almost We're gonna put the underside of that hackle facing back down the fly. I'm gonna secure that right behind the bead. As always, we wanna make sure that it is not gonna pull out once we start taking wraps, rearward with it. So I'm gonna secure that down. Now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna quickly do a little half hitch knot, get my thread outta the way again. And now when I do my first wrap, I want to do one complete wrap. All the way around 360, so I have my collar. Okay. Gotta create that collar before I start going back down the fly. And then I'm gonna palmer down the fly. This nice even spaced with the hackle. If you moisten your fingers a little bit, you can always get that maribou to stay outta the way. It has a way of soaking up water and kind of cooperating when you add a little bit of moisture. Now I'm gonna take this all the way back, right at the base where we Tied in that maribou. And now I'm gonna grab my wire and I'm gonna bring my wire over top going the opposite direction. Okay. Cause I need it to grab and make that securing wrap on the first time around. And then all I'm gonna do is I'm gonna palmer this back forward and you'll see it. I'm gonna move it in and out to try not to Trap Any of that hackle that we just put on, and you'll notice that this is now cross wrapping over top of the stem of that feather, and that gives this fly a ton more strength. So if I catch a fish on this woolly bugger, its teeth get into that feather, it could break the feather and it would all unwind. Whereas this way, The whole feather is being individually secured, constantly up the fly. I'll bring my thread back in. I'm gonna get a thread wrap in front, thread wrap behind. Gonna repeat that process, making sure that the wire's not gonna go anywhere now. Either go ahead and grab your pair of Dana scissors, or you could helicopter it off. I'm just gonna grab these scissors here. This will dull your scissors, so don't use a good pair. And now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna whip finish this fly right here. I'm gonna trim out that thread. I am gonna put just a small dab of some uv. I'm using bone dry by Solarez here. I just wanna put a small dab on the thread that I can see there, and that way I know this isn't gonna go anywhere. Here's real quick, it's real thin. Touch that with the torch. And there you have it guys. You can see how that taper worked out quite nicely. All I gotta do now is go in and trim out the stem of that feather that we left at the back, and that is your bead head woolly bugger. Super popular pattern for many different species.
 ZUG BUG Fly Tying Recipe: HOOK:2X-long nymph hook (e.g. Dai-Riki #730), sizes 14. FIRST THREAD:Black, 6/0. TAILS:Peacock herl. RIB:Silver tinsel. BODY:Peacock herl. LEGS:Hen hackle. WING CASE:Mallard or wood-duck flank feather. Head: Tying thread. Hey everybody. Tim Hepworth here. With Thursday Night Live Fly Tying and Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters, we are here to tie the Zug bug today on this episode of Quick Tie. This is season five, episode five. We wanna thank Rocky Mountain Fly Shop for bringing you this quick tie. As well, I want you to like and subscribe to this video. I'm gonna be tying out my season five kit. Looks just like. Don't forget, you can still head over to our website and pick one up today if you don't already have one. It's www.flyfishingbowriver.com/tnls5. You can grab yours there today, as well as the materials list for the fly I'm about to tie will also be up there on the website. Let's head on over to the vice and get started. Okay, so today we are tying this on a size 14. This is a dairichi #730. There you go. Alright. I'm gonna start my thread just behind the eye. I'm gonna work a thread base down a little ways. Actually, before I do that, I'm gonna remind you of something we need to do for this pattern. We need to leave a longer tag of line. So I'm gonna pull off a little bit extra before I start this on here cuz we are actually gonna use our thread to bind some materials down. So I'm gonna take this back, leaving this big long tag and just remember, don't trim it out cuz we are gonna use it. So I'm gonna get to about the hook bend and I'm gonna set this. I always find it difficult to keep track of this. So I actually come in here with a little hair clamp and I'm gonna clamp it to my vice over here so that I know where that thread is at all times, and it's outta my way. So the first material we're using, we're actually using two different types of peacock material. So you have these things called spears. Now if you had a, if I had a full feather here, I could show you where we get these from. But these are called spears. You can see they're a little bit, they're super iridescent, but they're a little bit more pointed in how they come. And they get a little bushy at the end, so they're a unique material. Grab three to four of them outta your kit. This one here is three of 'em gonna tie in. I want these, I just gotta match up the tips so that the tips are equal in length. Once I have those equal, I'm gonna come over here. I'm gonna measure off of my hook shank. I want these to be roughly half of the hook, shank in length, sticking out the back. I'm gonna measure that, set that over to the side. Switch hands, take a gathering. to gather them on top of the hook. Take a few wraps forward and then I'm gonna spring my thread wraps back. The goal is to try to keep 'em right up on top and then have them secured all the way back to basically where that hook bend was and where I initially had left my thread. Now I'm gonna work myself forward and secure those butts down, and then I'm just gonna come trim 'em out at this point here. Just so I should have my tail, my spears hanging out like that. I also have that thread there. Haven't cut that yet. So make sure you don't do that. Then I'm gonna come in here with a piece of silver flash, silver tinsel. Pretty much anything silver here could work if you were using silver wire.
However, you wouldn't need to leave the thread behind, so maybe that's actually a step saver. But the original pattern was just used as a piece of silver tinsel. So what I'm gonna do here is I'm. Get that fixed. Doesn't really matter where in the hook shank, but my thread's up here, so I'm gonna go ahead and do it right there and work. My thread wraps back to that point. I'm gonna cord up my thread just so it's, here we go. Acting like I wanted to, and now I'm gonna bring my thread back forward to cut it just behind the bead like and I'm gonna go over it. I'm gonna, Now another piece of peacock. This is just peacock herl. Okay, got a nice peacock herl. Try to find a couple that looked like they got some really nice plump little micro barbells on 'em. Cause that's what we're really gonna be tying this pattern with and trying to make it look good. I want to actually tie this in from the butts this time, cuz I'm gonna be tying it at the front, putting it to the back, using the thread to secure it. So I want the taper to look a little more natural. So I'm gonna come in and trim out the very stem the base of the stem because it's not weak, but it doesn't have the, what's the right word here? Puffiest or most plump looking portion of the feather. And then I wanna tie this in just in front of the head or the eye of the fly. Okay. And then we're gonna wrap it backwards, just like that, get that good and secure, trim out any of that little bit of tag, if I had any so I'm gonna take a nice half hitch here. Remember that's just an overhand knot. All I'm doing that for is to get my thread outta the way. And now I'm gonna wrap these two feathers or these peacock curls together, nicely evenly spaced. Trying not to wrap on top of the previous wrap because I want to have this nice standup of the material. That's where we get our shape on this fly from. We're already gonna have to put two more materials through it, which is gonna bind some of those down. So just make sure you don't touch any of them. As you go back, I'm gonna take this right to the back of the fly. Now I'm gonna reach in here and grab that thread that I left. Okay? So I got my thread. Make sure it's not tangled up in your, now I'm tangled up in that tinsel. Okay, now I'm gonna do a full wrap over to. , and then I'm gonna wiggle it as I move forward so that it doesn't get trapped or it doesn't trap any or too many of those little pieces of the peacock herl. Now this is almost acting if you can imagine, like in a wooly bugger, how we take wire and bring it forward over top of a hackle feather. Very similar idea. We're just using the thread because it's a much softer material that we're binding down. But peacock herl is always a little Fragile.
So we use this to make it a little stronger. Then I'm gonna tie off that thread and now be careful when you trim it out. Make sure you trim out the right thread and not the one that you're still tying with. I'm gonna take a few more thread wraps up here at the eye just to make sure I got this all locked in place and now I can come in here and grab those two peacock herl stems that I have left over and get rid of them. Now they're outta the way. Now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna do one more half hitch here just to make this a little easier. Keep my thread outta the way. I'm gonna set this aside one more time, and now I'm gonna bring this silver tinsel forward. Same idea, what I just did with the thread. I want three to five wraps as I come forward. Now this is gonna compress some of those materials. And we actually want it to, because this is what's gonna give some segmentation and it's also gonna give some flash to the center of the body, just like that. One more to get up to the eye and then I'll secure it down, just like that. Make sure the tinsel's not going anywhere and then I can trim it out. Now I'm gonna run my thread back just a smidge, cuz I'm gonna create a little bit of room cuz we're gonna tie. a soft tackle up here at the head. And then we're also gonna finish off with this little bit of a piece of a mallard flank that we put on the top as well. So in your kit you're gonna see we have these nice, small, not meant to be super long barbells or anything, but we are gonna pretty much be using that whole little feather. So let's just pull down any of the pieces that have white on them. That white plume on the bottom. We're gonna get rid of any hackle feathers here, guys, it's gonna work. A soft hackle. Okay. Just something that's got some, it still looks pretty wide down at the base, but soft and supple so that it can be actually wrapped around the hook Shank. I'm going to tie this in from the butt end. This time, like so can I get a thread wrap behind In front? Behind in front. Okay. Making sure that stem is very secure. Before I trim that out, I wanna make sure that it is not gonna go anywhere. . Okay. Now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna grab a pair of hackle pliers. This is an important step here cuz this is a very small feather. You want to come in here and grab just the very tip with the hackle feather. And now we are gonna start some wraps forward. Okay? And as I go forward, I'm pulling those pieces of the feather back down the fly so that I'm not stacking on top. Because I don't want to not use any of those. So taking some thread wraps behind in front. Again, making sure that's not gonna go anywhere . Okay. I'm gonna pull all of those little pieces of the feather forward now so I don't lock any of them down forward. I can come in here and trim out that tiny little stem, any of the pieces that went forward. I can also get rid of those and then I'm gonna come up here and coax them to go down the edges of the fly. Okay, so you can see. Then it almost looks flat on top. That's what I want cuz I'm gonna tie in one more material up here and that's gonna be a small mallard flank. So you see we have just a couple different ones here. Nothing special cause we're actually not really gonna use the feather itself per se. But I'm gonna peel a bunch down so that I'm not using any of that fluff. And I want to be tying in kind of the top stem, top of the tip of the stem, cuz that's where it's a little bit softer. And I'm gonna get the stem itself to stay nice and tight. It's gonna tie in long, it's gonna look funny, but just bear with me. We'll fix it up. Okay. So I'm gonna get my thread back just a smidge so I have space to tie this. , I'm gonna lay that right on top. And tying in basically right to where I left the peeled off portion. So just the bear stem is tying in itself. Take a few wraps to tie that in. Okay. I'm not gonna put any wraps underneath that stem. I'm gonna do a little bit of a secure thing here with my UV resin at the end, or any resin for that matter. I'm gonna slide my scissors up underneath the stem so it clears the eye out and trim it off.
So then from the top, you're left with something that looks like that. Now I'm gonna do a quick whip finish here. And then just a little bit of resin, so I'm not gonna go crazy with my whip finish cause I don't need to do more than anything. I don't wanna trap any of those hackle fibers. Trim that out. I'm gonna trim that one little piece that's hanging forward. Now I'm gonna. My solarez bone dry. I like this stuff. It's super thin. It's gonna soak right into the thread wraps, like a Sally Hansens, just that this you can cure at the end and it dries really quick. Okay? So I like to reinforce it by putting just a small drop on top of there. And what that's gonna do is gonna bind that stem down to the materials underneath, and it's gonna keep it from wanting to go all over the place. So once I get that good and cured, now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna bring my scissors underneath and I'm gonna cut. Lifting up the feather. I'm gonna bring this in underneath and try to cut off this feather fairly close. I'm trying to leave just a little triangle that doesn't extend much past the hackle itself. Okay. So you can see that it sits right up there. That just gives us that little bit of a white spot there, little triangle. You got the right shape if you did it like. And that is supposed to, basically the original version of this was meant to look like a cased caddis . I think it does a pretty spectacular job of that as well as looking like a lot of other things tied in different sizes and and even colors. Okay guys, this is the Zug bug. Hope you're able to get through this one with me. This is definitely an oldie but a goody. Keep this one in your box as well as we are going to probably use it and catch some fish with it. My name is Tim Hepper here with Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters, and Thursday Night Live Fly Tying. We wanna say thanks to Rocky Mountain Fly Shop. All right guys. Take care. AuthorTim Hepworth @timothyhepworth  JUANS KRYPTONITE CADDIS Fly Tying Recipe: Hook: #14 Daiichi 1120 Bead: 5/64”-7/64” Black Tungsten Bead Thread: Tan or Brown Vevuus 8/0 or 10/0 Body: 15LB Green Amnesia Running Line Collar1: Natural or Olive Brown CDC Collar2: Hareline Natural Hare’s Ear Dubbing Hey everybody, this is Tim Hepworth again here with Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters and Thursday Night Live Fly tying. And I'm here to bring you another quick tie blog. We are going to be tying the Juans Kryptonite Caddis. We want to thank Rocky Mountain Fly Shop for bringing you this quick tie today. Remember you can get FREE Shipping on all orders over $99 over a www.rockymountainflyshop.net. I'm gonna be tying out my Season five kit. If you want to still grab one of these things, you can sure do it.www.flyfishingbowriver.com/tnls5. You can also follow along with the material list at the top of the page, or purchase the Juans Kryptonite Caddis Material kit ( link above) To get started, We're gonna grab our size 14 Daichi 1120 hook. we're gonna get that black bead from your kit affixed to your hook. Okay? I'm gonna come in here and get it put into my vice. Good and secure I'm gonna be tying with some brown colored UTC 70 today. Okay. Something a little bit thinner. Could go black, could go olive. Doesn't really matter. We're not really seeing the thread on this fly. Just something a little bit smaller. I'm gonna come in here and start my thread just behind the bead. I'm gonna go ahead and snip out the tag. Now I'm gonna take some thread wraps, all the way back just to the edge of that bend where the barb is. But then I'm gonna come and bring my thread back. Okay. I'm gonna bring it. So it's sitting about at that halfway point on the hook. Okay, I'm gonna leave it right there. I'm gonna go over and grab the first material we're gonna be working with. This is gonna be the body of the caddis, this nice kind of minty colored, green soft looking body. Now the original pattern calls for 15lb fluorescent green amnesia. We're gonna build it out of some chenille on this tie. So to protect the Chenille and to make sure that it's not gonna erode or come apart or anything like that, we're just gonna grab a little lighter. Okay? And we're just gonna burn just at the very end. Have you ever worked with this type of chenille before? It also creates a nice little point , it points out the body, makes it even look a little bit more realistic. We use this method on worms a lot. Okay? So when I come in here to tie this in, The length that I'm looking for is overall, if I take the length of the hook right there, okay. By bracing off the front of the eye, and then I transitioned that to the portion where I'm gonna tie in at the middle. Basically find the length of the hook, tie in that much hanging out the back. Set that right there. That creates the length that we want. I'm gonna switch hands. Do a gathering wrap for that chenille, I wanna keep it right up on top of the hook. Okay? Take a couple thread wraps. Check my length. I like it. It's where I want it to be. Take a couple thread wraps forward and I can go in there and I can snip out the rest of that chenille, just make sure you're cutting the right end and then finish securing the underside of it. Take some thread wraps all the way to the bead. So that's where we're left with for now. Okay, only two more materials to put into this one, but this next one might be something you haven't worked with before. CDC Feathers.
Okay. This comes for lack of better words, it comes from a duck's butt. This is a very movable basically fibers on this feather, but they're delicate, hard to work with at times. We're gonna tie it in at the tip of the stem and then we're gonna try to work this forward. Palmer it forward. You're gonna see there's a differing length. Some of 'em are long, some are short. I'm gonna break some off cause I want a certain length. I don't want this to be super, super long. Stroke these back so they're outta the way so I can expose just the very. And I'm gonna bring my thread back to where I tied in that Chanel and I'm gonna tie in that stem right there. Now you have a couple, you should have quite a few of these in your kit. So that way if this one breaks, cuz sometimes they do break and it, who knows? It could happen to me as well. If they break, we can always tie in another one. Okay? So just wanna make sure we get that stem really locked in. We can worry about the stem in a second. And now I am gonna go grab some hackle pliers just because this is very delicate and the stem is quite small and I'm gonna grab on to it. Don't tug too hard, or you definitely could break this. And now we're just gonna work on palming this forward. And I have some nice open wraps, so I wanna make sure I don't trap any of those cuz every single one of those little fibers is important. I'm just gonna palmer that forward towards the eye of the hook and when I run out of feather. Try to make as many wraps as you can as you go or back down the fly, using up just about all of that feather that we can. But you're gonna realize if you pull too hard at any point, you are either gonna break the stem or you're gonna slip off your hackle pliers. And I'm gonna come in, take a securing wrap behind the securing wrap in front. Okay. So I should be good and secure there. I can go ahead and trim out the edge of that stem like so now you can see I have all these differing lengths here, but before I do anything else, I just wanna take a few more securing wraps right behind that bead and back a little ways, making sure I got that stem firmly.
And now I'm gonna push all these fibers back with my fingers and grab that tail in at the same time. So you can see I got a measurement going right here. And all of these that are out beyond, I'm just gonna grab and pull. Okay. They break, they're quite brittle. I'm gonna pinch them a little bit. So I get the desired length that I want of the CDC feathers. You can see there, I didn't want them to extend too far beyond the back of that body portion. So I just went in there and I went a little bit more off those ones just pinch and. Just like that. Okay, now we've only got one material left and it's a real simple one. We're gonna grab this beautiful hares ear dubbing. I love this stuff. It's literally as natural as you get. We haven't changed the color, nothing. It's got all those guard hairs in it, which we're gonna utilize here in a moment as well. Just separate it once so you can see some of those guard hairs. And then grab a little pinch that's got a decent clump of guard hair in it. Okay? Something like this. Switch my hands over and I'm gonna make a dubbing noodle. Okay, so I'm just gonna spin that. Remember moving my fingers always in the same direction like that, spinning that, just a short piece, inch and a half long or so. And I'm gonna start my thread right where I left it, where I left that CDC. And I don't, I'm not gonna put a ton of pressure on these wraps and I'm just gonna move forward once I've used it all up. I have a little bit of extra, that's totally fine. I'll pull that off. It comes off easy. And then a couple thread wraps just behind the bead. I'm gonna go ahead and whip finish this off where it is.
Do one more whip. I'm not gonna worry about resin on this guy. I don't wanna mess up all that nice dubbing we just put in there. I'm gonna trim this outta the way and then I'm just gonna do a little bit of work with a dubbing brush, also known as my Velcro, and I'm just gonna, That dubbing just a little bit rearward. And what it should do is it should blend in, come off just a little bit. Don't get too vigorous with it. We don't wanna pull it all out. Just blend that a little bit. Gives us this beautiful looking fly. The Juan’s Kryptonite Caddis, you're gonna want to try this one out a few times. Try some different sizes. This is the number 14, probably our most common size that we're gonna attack with. You can try a different color of the body, even go with a brown or a tan but definitely a great pattern. All right, everybody. Again, this is Tim Hepworth here with Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters and Thursday Night Live fly tying. Thanks again to Rocky Mountain Fly Shop for bringing this quick tie, and we will see you next week. AuthorTim Hepworth @timothyhepworth  HARES STONEFLY NYMPH Fly Tying Recipe: Hook: #06 Tiemco 5262 Bead: 7/64”-1/8” Gold Bead Thread: Tan UTC 70 Wire: .010”-.015” Lead Wire Tail and Antennae: Brown Goose Biots Body: Golden Brown Hare Wiggle Dub Collar: Natural India Hen Cape Hey everybody. Welcome back to another Quick Tie Blog. My name is Tim Hepworth. I'm here with Fly Fish Fishing Bow River Outfitters. And Thursday Night Live Fly tying. And in this quickie we are gonna be tying, The Hares Stonefly Nymph. All right, real good pattern. We want to thank Rock Mountain Fly Shop for bringing you this quick tie. Remember , it’s free shipping over $99 www.rockymountainflyshop.net I'll be tying out of our kit. This is season five. You can still grab your kit if you head on over to www.flyfishingbowriver.com/tnls5. All right, I think that's all the good stuff. Let's head over to the vice and get ourselves. Go ahead and get that hook in your vice. To start with, we are gonna put this gold bead on size ⅛”. Remember, stick the hook, point into the small, the smallest hole that you can find on there. Get that good and secure. Then we're gonna grab that bead and immediately pull it back outta the way. We got some goose biots to tie in the front and the back to start this fly. So we're actually gonna start our thread up here.We are going to be using a tan UTC 70 for Thread. Take a few thread wraps back for snipping. Cutting that free. Okay, now next material we're gonna tie into some brown,Biots. So go ahead and grab yourself a couple off of the strip. Now, Biots can be frustrating to work with, but if you use a couple of simple techniques, you can make it easier for yourself. So separate those two. I suggest going in and snipping the coarse butts off. So I'm gonna come in here with my scissors. Cut those outta the way. Now you're gonna notice that each biot is curved. We want to have them curved to the outside, so running along the shaft of the hook and curving out. Essentially splayed away from each other. And then we want to pair them back to back. So once you find the angle that they are at, you're gonna stack 'em. So I'm gonna come in here, stack one on top of the other. Okay, we'll even those up. And now we're gonna reverse direction cuz these are gonna go out the front of the fly to start with. Make sure the tips are semi aligned. the most frustrating part in working with biots, is getting 'em to kind of display properly, get 'em lined up, and then get 'em tied in. So now that I've got 'em where I want 'em, they're even, as you can see, I'm gonna lay them so that they hang off the front of the eye. Roughly a quarter inch, somewhere in there. Make sure that thread is right up by the eye. I'm gonna kind of splay them one on either side of the hook Shank. I'm gonna take a gathering wrap, just making sure one's on each side, gathering, wrap, secure that down, and then start taking a few thread wraps back and the put some pressure on it, make sure it's good and tight, so it looks like so. Okay. That's ideally kind of, that's probably one of the best I've ever done. These are not always easy to work with, but once you get the hang of them, not too bad. Let's cover up the butts of those. Now all we're gonna do is go ahead and throw in a half hitch right here. It's gonna save our work and we're actually gonna snip our thread out. I'm gonna bring that bead back and you can see as you push your bead up, it keeps it splayed. Those look like that antenna, that stonefly, but it helps secure and save those butts from ever coming out. Now we're gonna go over, we have some 0.10 lead here. Okay. We're gonna take a series of wraps. I want the wraps to start about at the hook point and go up towards the eye. So I'll start back here. We're just meant to put lots of weight on this. Often we're gonna fish this quite low on the water column, but it is important that I have the thread wraps. Go all the way up, the lead wraps. Go all the way up onto the thread and we can just kind of bring it around so they finish somewhere up by the bead. Somewhere right up behind the bead, you can snip or tear that off. We're gonna make sure that the tag at the back is also brought down towards the hook shank, and that is what we should be left with. Making sure that it's pinched down and pushed up like so. Okay, now we're gonna grab our thread. We're gonna get back to business. With that, we're gonna take a couple of thread wraps here. Just behind that lead. I'm gonna spool that up and my thread had split on me a little bit. And now that we're back here, what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go ahead and grab two more Biots off your stem. We're gonna tie two in for the back, exactly how we tied 'em in on the front. Okay. Same exact scenario. Split them off. Cut those butts. Stack 'em on top of each other so they splay outwards. Make sure the tips are relatively even again, now I'm gonna come in and try to do the exact same thing about the same distance off. I'm gonna switch hands here and I'm gonna come in here and just cut So these don't go up onto those lead wraps. And then I'm gonna take some thread wraps up over top, securing it to each side of the hook. And before I get too, too aggressive, I just wanna, readjust when you have 'em a little bit loose still. We wanna make sure that they are in fact where I want them to be. And then I can take some more thread wraps back. We don't want to go over the hook bend, we want to cut, basically come to it and just make sure that those are still splaying properly. If you're happy with that. Now I'm gonna take some thread wraps. Making sure that's good and secure. And we're gonna take thread wraps now, right up on top of all that wire, we basically want to cover up those lead wraps with that tan thread, which is just a UTC 70, if I didn't mention that earlier.
I'm gonna show you right here, we are gonna doa little dubbing loop . So I like a little bit thicker thread for spinning it. So all I'm doing is putting two fingers on the thread, making a bit of a loop, bringing my thread back to the top, and I'm gonna toss my bobbin over top. Try not to get all tangled up into those biots. I'm gonna cut this thread just to get it out of the way because if you pinch those down, you gotta start all over again. Let's restart my thread. Bring it down , so we're gonna go ahead, like I said, two fingers, toss my bobbin over top once, twice. And then I can wrap that back down just to where I left those biots. And I'm gonna go ahead and grab my dubbing spinner and hook it on. And now, while I'm in here already, I am gonna grab just a little bit of wax. I'll take my other thread forward to the eye. I'm gonna take some of this wax, just a little touch of it. Not going crazy with it. Get that in there. Try not to have any clumps on there Cause that'll just work itself into the material, the dubbing once we put it in. Now that I have it here, I'm just gonna do a little half hitch up here at the bead just to make sure that's locked in place. And now we're gonna go to the dubbing. We're just using this tan. Hares dubbing. Okay, we're gonna brush some of this out as we go, but little dabs of it, we're not grabbing a lot. I'm gonna grab some and pull it apart and stack it on top of itself, and I'm gonna go ahead and set it right in the dubbing loop. That little bit of wax that's in there is gonna kind of hold it in place initially so I don't have to fight with it too much. Now, I'm gonna take a few pinches of this dubbing. We'll probably do that three or four times, get it in there. We kind of wanna spread out this dubbing as much as possible to start with. Again, I can just touch it to that thread and because I have that wax in there, it's holding it in place. And then I can kind of come in here and make sure it's all spread out properly and where I want it. And I'm just gonna go ahead and spin that up. Spin, spin, spin. Gonna let it rope really nice, but if you overspin it, you are gonna end up breaking that thread. So be careful not to do too much. Now I am gonna go in with my brush or my Velcro here, and I'm just gonna pull out just a little bit. I'm not gonna really get aggressive with it. Gonna pull out a little bit of those fibers, just touching that Velcro to it, and then I'm gonna start wrapping forward. Okay? So just touching wraps, going up the fly, and hopefully we're gonna run outta dubbing. With a little bit of space behind the bead. I come in here and I'm gonna secure that dubbing loop by taking your thread wrap behind a thread wrap in front. That's your securing wraps. Do it twice. I know it's not going anywhere now, and I can trim it out. Okay? We're not gonna do anything more with this dubbing right now. We will do a little bit in a moment.
So you see I have just a bit of space, uh, behind that bead. And this is where we're gonna come in here with our south soft tackle feather. Okay? Got a whole range of colors and soft hackles you could use. This one's a dark brown with almost a chocolate colored flex in it. What I'm gonna do is I'm gonna come in here, I'm gonna pull down, exposing a little triangle. Right at the peak, and that's what I'm gonna tie in. I want to tie it in with the underside of the feather pointed back down the fly. get that secure thread wrap a couple times on one side, a couple on the other, repeat, and then we can trim out that stem before we start wrapping so we don't get it caught up in what we're doing. Really wanna make sure that's secure and it's not going anywhere. Now we're not gonna overdo it. You can take a ton of wraps of this stuff, but it'll just bulk up all of that at the front of the fly. We definitely need one full wrap. We're gonna try to not get caught up on itself, so you don't wanna wrap it on top of itself. Gonna bring it all the way back around and I'll bring my thread up and through it. Try not to trap any of it. Thread wrap behind, thread wrap in front, and don't worry if you've caught some of it, we can work with that in a moment. I'm gonna come in here and trim out my stem again. Make sure you secure that quite well. I'm gonna pull all that material back and I'm gonna take a few thread wraps. Okay. It's almost creating a bit of a dam, forcing all of those Fibers to go back down the fly. Like so has this appearance of a hare's ear nymph. That's why it is called the hares stonefly. I'm now gonna come in here. I'm gonna take a half hitch first just to secure that spot. I'm just gonna go ahead and find your whip finish tool. We'll do what one whip finish here and we'll touch it with some solarez uv resin. Trim that out. I'm gonna grab just a little bit of this bone dry from Solarez UV resin. Just put a drop on the thread wraps. It'll start to soak in. I'm gonna hit that with my uv light, so it cures Really quick, I'm gonna do a little bit of a brush and then we're gonna be finished with this fly. Gonna go back to my Velcro brush here. It's gonna take a little bit of poles back down the fly, and just like that guys. You have your hares stonefly nymph. Great little nymph to keep in the box. Keep it in a few sizes. Pretty much guarantee you you're gonna catch something on that. Thank you for showing up to this quick tie blog. We wanna say a big thank you to Rocky Mountain Fly Shot for bringing it to you tonight.
AuthorTim Hepworth @timhepworth BOOGEY MAN ARTICULATED STREAMER Fly Tying Recipe: Rear Hook: Daichi 2461 Size 1/0 Thread: Black FlyMaster Plus Tail: Black marabou Rib: Brassie Black Wire Body: Black Cactus Chenille Hackle: Black Schlappen, palmered over the body Wing: Wood Duck Flank feather, tied flat on top Front Hook: Daiichi 2461 Size 1/0 Eye: Medium Red Lead Eye, tied on bottom of hook shank Connector: Looped Beadalon Wire, with One Red Bead Threaded Tail: Black Marabou, extending over the connector Rib: Brassie Black Wire Body: Black Cactus Chenille Hackle: Black Schlappen, palmered over body Wing: Wood Duck Flank Feather, tied flat extending to mid-point of rear hook Head/Collar: Black Sculpin Wool, tied in and cut to shape  On this quick tie blog, we are going to be tying up Kelly Galloups Boogeyman. An awesome streamer pattern that is sure to allure some big fish into eating it. This quick tie is brought to you by www.rockymountainflyshop.net , and we are going to be tying out of our Season 5 kits ( purchase yours here www.flyfishingbowriver.com/tnls5 ) we're tying from season five episode three. If you don’t have the kits with all your pre packaged materials, you can still find our recipe list for these flies on our website, or it should be listed above on this page. Let's head on over the vice and get started. First things first let's go ahead and grab one of our hooks, a daiichi 2461 and this isn't a one ought size it's a long streamer hook. It’s the first hook for the back end of The Fly, as always on these articulated streamers. I am tying with some UTC 140 in Black. first thing we're going to do is we're just going to come in here and let's lay down a good base of thread wraps. Start it somewhere up by the eye. I'm going to put this a little deeper into my nor vise. I can just whip this up. I'm going to add some thread all the way back down into the bend and bring it back up. I'm just going to lay a nice thread base down there so those materials that were put on next have something to bind onto. then I'm going to bring my thread right back to about the Barb. go ahead and grab out of your kit or if you're tying from home grab from your materials. We're going to grab a chunk of Marabou, and the color scheme for this fly today is going to be in Black. So we're going to grab a good chunk of Marabou and measure it being roughly the length of that hook shank, set that back to where I left my thread switch hands, do a nice Gathering wrap secure that Marabou , and start taking thread wraps forward. Now I'm just going to use the underside of this remaining part of the marabou to kind of create a little bit of bulk as I go down the hook shank. you can see here I'm just gonna basically attach it down to one side or the other I'm gonna get near the eye, then I'm just going to come in here trim it out and then make sure that base of the feather is secured down. I'm going to come back up the fly , then just right back down the fly to where I tied the marabou in, and we are going to tie in our next material. Next material is a schlappen. start up at the tip pull some of that fiber back down, turn it over so that the underside of the feather is pointed rearward down the fly and come in here and secure this right in front of that Marabou. make sure that's good and secure. I'm even just going to lay that little piece of the tip down. make sure that's all good and secure, don't worry about all that bulk we have underneath. that just creates a little profile and it's not going to be seen. we're going to head on over to our large size Cactus chenille. we're gonna strip off a few of those fibers so you can see it exposes just that little bit of chenille cord. we're going to lay the cord we have exposed on top of the hook Shank and gather them, secure them down nice and tight. work our thread forward this time right to the eye and I'm gonna go ahead and put a little half hitch in to secure my work up to this point. I'm going to set my thread off to the side on my bobbin cradle and now I'm going to start wrapping my Cactus Chenille forward. I'm going to do a full wrap all the way around first before starting to head forward
As I go forward I'm just going to pull the fibers back so they stack nicely all the way forward, just kind of pulling them back each time I wrap forward. I'm going to take this all the way up to just behind the eye of the hook. leave yourself a little bit of space up there and bring that thread back in, thread wrap behind, thread wrap in front as always to secure that material, do that twice and you can go ahead and trim out that Cactus chenille. make sure it's out of the way, gonna take a couple more thread wraps to make sure that's all locked in. I'm going to do the exact same thing again. I'm going to do a little half hitch and set my bobbin off to the side of my cradle. Now I'm going to come to our schlappen . I'm going to do exactly the same thing. I'm going to start palmering it forward and as I do I'm just kind of making sure that all the pieces of the feather are standing up nicely. it's not an exact science and it doesn't need to be. just wrap that forward and we're going to leave it basically right where we left that Cactus chenille. we're more or less trying to make sure we're just now wrapping back over top of any of the pieces. I'm going to bring my thread back in and do the same thing, thread wrap on one side in front, thread wrap behind and repeat that process a couple times to make sure we have that good and secure because we don't want this to come undone. we can come in here and trim it out and I'm just going to fold everything back, take a few thread wraps to make sure that's good and secure, not going anywhere. I can come in here with a little brush and just make sure I when I brush it's just going to pull all those pieces of that feather apart kind of get them headed rearward down the fly. Now one of the best parts of this fly that I love so much and the appearance that it gives is our Mallard flank. we're gonna put a mallard flank feather right on top, this gives the appearance of the top of the back of a fish and you can kind of vary your coloring scheme. I like these tan ones, they're barred and look like maybe a little brown trout's back. we're gonna set it right on top. We want it to extend just into the tail slightly, not too far just a little bit. make sure it's right on top of the hook shank and that it's not going down to one side or the other. this one's important that it stays up on top. go ahead get some thread wraps on top of it take your hand off make sure you got it good and level. If it's not perfect, adjust it and take a few more thread wraps back to make sure it's secure, lift up the tag end make sure you get some wraps underneath that that's going to lock it in to keep it from twisting. We can go ahead and trim it out now and all I'm going to do is take a few more thread wraps , trim the base of that feather up a little , and don't have to be super clean. let's do a quick little whip finish. I'm going to grab a little bit of my favorite UV resin which as you know is that solarez bone dry, it’s very thin and I really like this. it'll soak into this material quite nicely. put a drop of it on there and let that soak in for half a second. grab my UV light and cure that. we're gonna pop that out the Vise we'll set it aside for the time being. we're going to get to work on the front half of the fly.
I'm going to go back in and grab another hook (daiichi 2461) . we're using that same hook we used in the back end we're going to use for the front end. make sure we get it good and secure in the norvise. now I'm going to go ahead and grab my thread again and start it up by the eye, work some more of a thread base down just like we did before. take that all the way back into the bend and back forward and this time we're going to come up about a couple of eye lengths behind the eye itself and we're going to go ahead and tie in our dumbbell eyes. We got some of these lead eyes here and we're going to lay it kind of across as it naturally wants to. it wants to kind of sit on that Crux. we're going to take our first few thread wraps just to hold it in place then we can switch directions so right now it looks like that we can switch directions and pull it over from the other side too we just start taking some cross wraps either direction then we'll throw in some figure eights which is exactly like it sounds. This looks like a figure eight so around one side around the other takes some just around the eyes itself. then we want to take those eyes and we want to spin them so they're on the bottom where the lead eyes sit is the way it's going to swim. we want the hook down on this fly. take a few more thread wraps making sure everything's good and secure when you're happy with it we'll take some thread wraps farther back and now leave it about mid Shank. You can hit those eyes with bone dry solarez if you wish. Now in your kit or if you have some at home, we're just using a piece of mono but you could use Intruder wire or anything like that to attach the back to the front hook. we're going to secure the back piece to the front so I'm going to lay this mono on top of the hook shank. take some thread wraps and we're really going to put quite a few nice tight wraps down , securing this all the way back, trying to keep it right on top of the hook shank. we're going to take it just into the edge of the bend and I'm going to come back forward. just really securing that in place. now what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and grab a couple of the beads that you have in your kit as well as any type of beads. craft beads or whatever you like can work. you can use a couple or use one , either way we're just basically tying with some beads to hold that back hook out of the way so hopefully it doesn't come back in and foul the front hook when you’re fishing it. I'm gonna stick this mono through the eye of the back hook. I'm going to bring it back forward and I'm going to slide that back through that bead and it all kind of depends on how stiff the line or the Intruder wire you are using, but most of them are stiff enough that it's going to hold that back in place. I'm going to leave that Loop a little ways back, pinch down and start taking some thread wraps of that mono or the wire and this time I'm going to flip it over and double it over. then I can snip it out. get that good and secure down.
I'm going to bring my thread back to this back portion of the fly. now some people would like to put some Marabou back in here but we're going to tie as close to the original pattern as possible, so we're going to leave this as is and we're just going to start working on that front portion again, which this time we're going to go straight to tying in our schlappen or your saddle Hackle ( whichever you prefer). we'll tie that in first, same thing Underside back down the fly. we'll kind of secure that tag like we did the last time by bringing my thread back down. go ahead and grab that Cactus Chenille, again peel off a few of those pieces so you can expose that core and get that core secured down. This time we're going to wrap forward just behind the eyes. I'm gonna throw in a little half hitch, hit that save button and now I'm going to start wrapping forward with my chenille. same thing kind of trying to pull all the little pieces back as we go forward. This is a nice bulky looking Cactus chenille, it has lots of Flash in it and it’s gonna look great in the water. we're gonna bring that forward . leaving one of those lead eye spaces behind the current lead eyes. Secure it by wrapping in front, wrapping behind and make sure that's good and secure and then we can trim it out. really wrap down and make sure it's good and secure. now we're going to take our schlappen and we're going to do exactly the same thing we did last time , making sure we try to pull those pieces of the feather apart to make sure we're not trapping any of them as we move forward but we will brush it out kind of again so we should be able to prevent most of that just going to Palmer that forward through that chenille and we're going to leave it right by those eyes and secure it off again wraps behind wraps in front go ahead in and trim it out again take a few thread wraps really make sure that's locked in place. I'm going to take my brush like I did before brushing it a little bit, then we're going to go over and repeat what we did in the back. we're going to grab another one of our mallard flanks. we want it to extend just slightly into that back portion so that it overlaps on the mallard flank we have in the back. we just want that to overlap slightly, right up on top of the hook. tie that in place to secure it down. A few more wraps and we can trim it out super close. Now we're going to work on the head of the fly, which might be some of the more complicated portions. I just have a little clip on there to hold everything back out of the way. We are working with sculpin wool. Now you want to grab a chunk of it, it's about an inch - inch and a half long. I am using black and what I like to do is kind of fluff it up. I'm just going to keep pulling it apart and stacking it and it almost builds air into it. It makes it nice and fluffy and that's kind of how we're going to gain some shape and fluffiness to this. I'm going to find that halfway mark in it and we're going to start by putting this on the top and putting a thread wrap over top of it. a couple thread wraps forward and then I'm going to pull it back., you want to tie this first one in pretty much right behind the eyes so pull it back and add a couple thread wraps. it's going to look pretty poofy as we tie it in and then we'll do some trimming after to give it shape. Now we're going to flip it upside down and we're going to repeat that process on the underside. Same thing to fluff it up, and lay that just behind those dumbbell eyes. secure it in place with a couple wraps. pull it out of the way and we're gonna flip this fly back up again. I'm going to advance just in front of my eyes. okay so that's our first portion, and I'm gonna grab another clump. this time I'm going to lay it again kind of doing that same halfway part and I'm going to lay it on the underside of the fly. I'm reaching my thread behind the dumbbell eye and on this side. I'm going to reach the thread on the underside of the dumbbell eye and make sure that stays on top. it just filled up that space on top of the dumbbell eyes. That's kind of the harder spot to fill. Now I'm going to flip it upside down and repeat that exact same thing on the underside. fill that space upside down and we got a couple more to do but we are almost there. that's going to fill the underside of that Gap. you want to end up pretty close to the front of the fly with the wool and then what I'm actually going to do is I'm going to take a few wraps if I can back on the wool, kind of helps hold it back out of the way and create a bit of a thread Dam. I'm going to do a quick whip finish and then we're just going to do a little trimming and add your favorite resin up here at the head. I'm gonna do just a small dab of it so I know that's very secure but it never hurts to add just a little touch of some resin, let that soak in a half sec, hit it with the light. Let's do a little bit of trimming. note that when you're trimming wool it is actually pretty hard on your scissors so if you got a little crummier pair. or a pair of Dana's Scissors. maybe use them instead. I like to stand it all up so it looks like a big mohawk. now I'm going to trim the shape. I want to be a little bit pointed the nose leaving some of that wool to go back over that mallard flank but the shape is up to you, just remember you can't put it back on once you've trimmed it off. I'm going to make my first cut at a bit of an angle towards the back do a little bit of the same again on the side. this is my first kind of big General cuts. I'm going to flip it upside down I'm going to do the exact same thing a pretty steep angle on this one. I like how that's sitting trim a little bit more and now from this point all the trimming you're doing is just to satisfy the appearance that you want. I like to moisten the fingers just a little bit and pull back on it. it's going to give me a little better appearance of what it's going to look like.
There you have it , Galloup's boogeyman. I suggest you keep a few of these in your box. they are definitely productive. I am Tim Hepworth with Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters, and Thursday Night Live fly tying. This has been the boogeyman, another quick tie blog. Don’t forget that www.rockymountainflyshop.net has free shipping over $99 ! See you next week AuthorTim Hepworth - @timothyhepworth Rance's Gypsy King Fly Tying Recipe: Hook: #10 Daiichi 1280 Thread: Black Veevus 6/0 Rib: Small Copper Wire Body: Peacock Herl Body2: Brown 2MM Thin Foam+ Flash: Pearl Krystal Flash Wing: Deer or Elk Hair Hackle: Grizzly Rooster Saddle or Cape Legs: Brown Medium Round Rubber Legs  Tim Hepworth here with Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters and Thursday Night Live fly tying. I'm here to bring you another quick tie blog and this quick tie blog is sponsored by Rock Mountain Fly Shop. remember every order over $99 from them gets you free shipping. www.rockymountainflyshop.net . I'm going to be tying tonight out of our season five kits and episode two. we are tying rancey's Gypsy King. open up your kit if you're tying out of our pre packaged material kist, but if you're not it's okay just head over to our website you're going to get a full material list (www.flyfishingbowriver.com/tnls5) and you can go to Rock Mountain fly shop or your local Fly Shop grab the materials that you need, or maybe already have them. let's go ahead, let's get our hook in our norVise. What we're tying on tonight is a size 10 number 1280 daiichi hook. so go ahead get that secured in your Vice. make sure it's not going anywhere. for a thread tonight I'm going to be tying with black, you could either use 6/0 or here I'm using some UTC 140, something a little thicker because we're going to be working with some foam and we don't want to cut through the foam too easily. let's go ahead and let's start our thread somewhere just behind the eye we'll go ahead and we'll trim out the tag end of that thread and now we're going to work this back down into the hook Bend. laying a nice little thread base in okay we'll come back just slightly. The first thing we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and tie in some brass colored small wire. I'll just tie that in and we're going to bring that thread back right to the edge of the hook bend and you can leave that wire just off the back. The next thing we're going to do is we're going to get right up building this body. Now in your kit you've got an abundance of peacock hurl. That's what we're using and there's a reason there's abundance there. You need a really good size Clump probably 10 - 12 pieces. we're building a nice thick body on this fly and we're roping up this peacock herl. it's important that they're all matched up at the tips. I'm going to level them all off. Those tips are quite brittle anyways. I'm going to lay this right on top and take a securing wrap. It's gonna spin my thread so it hops backwards. I'm gonna pull that back and I'm going to secure those butts down. create a little bit of a bump at the back of the fly here but it's not going to be noticeable once we put all this body material down.
okay so I've got that secured in right to the bend. I'm going to work my thread back forward. I'm going to leave it right behind the eye. This is where we're going to bring all this material forward. I did a little half hitch there just so I could set my thread out of the way now. I'm going to get both hands here working with this peacock herl. What I want you to do is place the butts in your finger and spin them. we're going to rope up this peacock herl. it gives it a nice appearance when you get it on onto your fly, and then we're just going to start palmering this forward. use the rotary function of your Vise. if you get to a point where it hasn't totally spun together, I'm just going to spin the herl pieces up again and make sure it's spun tight. it gives it a nice velvety appearance, very buggy. I'm gonna bring it right up to the eye and I'm gonna come in and bring my thread back to a working position. hold that peacock herl straight up get a securing thread wrapping behind it and in front of it. repeat that process one more time behind it and in front of it and then we can go ahead and trim out that peacock herl. this stuff is notorious for slipping and going back so it's really important that you secure that quite well. I'm just going to go ahead with my wire and I'm going to go in that same direction as ther herl. I'm gonna do some nice segmenting wraps trying to keep them nice and evenly spaced. I'm also going to take this all the way up to just behind the eye and secure it down . I'll go ahead and trim out that wire and make sure you grab your buddies' scissors, these might be Danas. if you're looking for some good buddy scissors I think if you head on over to Rocky Mountain Fly Shop you might just have to look for something called Dana scissors and they might have some just like this for you. now what I'm going to do is I'm going to take my thread and I'm going to hop it back while I'm on top of the fly. I could wrap through this a bunch of times and you're not really going to see it but I'm just going to try to keep my wraps up on top of the peacock curl. I'm segmenting that overall hook into quarters so I figure I'm about a quarter of the way back from the eye that's going to take a couple thread wraps. I'm going to leave my thread there. the first thing we're going to do is we're going to get some foam involved here. We got some foam for this fly. This is just 2mm Brown foam. you want to measure it so that it's about a hook Gap and width. I want to have this hanging basically just off the back a little ways and then out to the front here a little ways. I just gauge it roughly. I'm not doing anything specific right now but at the back end of The Fly I'm going to cut just a little Point into it. so I'm going to flip it over and cut it again. That's what I want the back of the foam to look like. Now I'm going to lay this on top of the hook and I want that pointy end there you see to extend just beyond the bend.
I'm going to take one wrap here. this one's a loose one . put a little tension on it. The next one is a little tighter. The third one is completely tight. if we do it in that sequence we shouldn't cut the foam with our thread. lift that foam up and take a couple wraps in front of it, that's going to help it from spinning around the hook shank itself. get that nice and secure. we're just going to kind of leave it as is. The next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to go in and grab some Crystal Flash. you're also going to notice you have quite a bit of that so if I grab let's say four or five strands, they're long strands. I'm just going to take them. I'm going to fold them over and I'm going to cut right where they're folded so this is going to give me probably double. if I had four strands now I got eight and that's gonna be plenty for this. It's gonna still be quite long. I like them long on the fly because I'm going to be able to keep them out of the way. if you cut them short right away they actually just really want to get in the way so I'm going to tie them in like that, fold that over, put a few thread wraps down to secure them, and I'm just going to pull them back out of the way like so. if you have a material clip or something it's great to just hold that stuff back. I'm going to grab my rubber legs. so a little different than normal we're going to tie two in on each side at the same time. I've got these still attached to each other, I'm just going to leave them like that. they're too long for this specifically right now but we'll trim them in a second. I'm just going to take a couple thread wraps kind of loosely, let the weight of the bobbin hang down and I can still go in there. I can adjust these. I can move them around to where I want them. if you can accomplish it , you'd like that front leg to be pointed down slightly like so. Now I'm gonna stick in the rubber legs on the near side of the fly to myself, same exact thing as I did on the far side. take a couple wraps just to get them kind of laying in there and then I can go ahead and I can adjust them a bit. okay just kind of put them right in the middle so you have a good adjustment on both sides. make sure those are just up against the edge of that foam. Next we got some deer hair. you also could use elk hair. we're going to take a decent sized Clump maybe half a pencil width, nothing too crazy. this isn't a very big fly so we're going to grab a little clump of it. I'm going to trim it off right off the patch. right away I can see there's going to be a lot of fluff in the back of it so you can see all that fluff or under fur in there and I'm gonna try to get some of that out and kind of flick it out. You can use a small comb if you like. Now I'm going to go ahead and place this right in a hair Stacker. go ahead and stack that hair. get it in your hair Stacker. we're going tips down as always. give that a couple whacks on the table now when I pull this off I want the butt end of the stacker to be facing back down the fly. That's where I want the tips to be so as you can see here I pull it out, and I got the tips right there. go ahead and grab those tips keeping them together. I can do another little clean out of that under fur while I'm at this point. My tips should be nice and lined up. Now what I'm measuring here, I want my tips to extend just beyond the back of that foam as well, so I don't want them way out here. I don't want them too short. I want to be right about there. Once I've measured that I'm going to switch hands keeping my position on the hair and I'm actually going to cut this right here. make a mess of my table for you so when I tie this in I don't want to have to trim again. I want to tie this in just like so, so I'm going to tip those hair down.
I'm going to take a gathering wrap on that hair, second wrap a little tighter and you're going to see it flares that hair slightly. I'm going to put some wraps through the butts of the hair. Now if that moved your legs around at all you can always just re-adjust them. they should still move for you. Now you can see at this point my Crystal Flash is going to be held down by that hair so I can come in here and trim that Crystal Flash. I'm going to trim it again just beyond that foam. make sure that foam sits up nice and tall right on top of the fly. take a couple more securing wraps. I got that hair and that Wing to flare real nice. I got my legs in place no problem there pretty much done this fly one more material to add in here so now I'm going to go ahead and I'm going to grab my Grizzly Hackle. you need a Hackle, you can either use from a cape or you can use a full length saddle Hackle, is probably preferred. it's a little bit easier to work with because they're longer a longer stem on them just going to go ahead and grab it onto my kit here and we're going to tie this so that the underside of the saddle Hackle here as you can see in Grizzly color is pointed back down the fly. Underside is going to be back down the fly. I'm going to pull just a few of these at the back out trying to attain the size that I want because I want it to be just beyond the actual size of the hook Gap. Once I've got that there to kind of prepare the stem, I'll trim it down slightly. I'll just take a trim a few of those fibers up that just gives me something to tie in with and hopefully that won't slip around on me. I'm going to come in here and tie down that stem. This is going to be something you want to make sure is good and secure so take some good thread wraps to lock it in place. I'm going to want to do probably at least four wraps of this Hackle depending on the water you're fishing it in, whether it's a little bit rougher water or calmer water you could maybe change the number of wraps. I want to go with at least four, so try to keep one wrap in front of the other. just trying to get this buggy appearance to kind of happen right here. make sure you keep that foam up on top. I want to secure this so I'm going to bring my thread in and run it along that Hackle. go to the other side. now go back in front of it just like we kind of did with the wire or anything else. you want to take some thread wraps in front, some thread wraps behind. I can go ahead and I can trim out that piece of Hackle. now I'm gonna quickly jump my thread right forward to the eye. hold that material back a bit and now I'm going to lay that foam down. we're going to create the head here. I laid the foam down. I'm going to take my thread and go right over top of that foam. try not to trap any of that Hackle that we just put in, and take a nice tight wrap down on top of that foam. take a couple more so when you look at it from the front it gives you a little bit of a bulge for the head. Now I'm going to go ahead and just trim out this foam to get the rest of it out of the way. I'm just going to extend my scissors just slightly forward a couple mils and there you go. That's the head of the fly. a pretty simple way to finish off that head. This can be a bit of a beast to whip finish because you have to hold everything back out of the way. I'm going to grab my half hitch tool. as I've showed before it's going to do a couple wraps and I stick the half inch over the eye of the hook and pull the thread down. that's going to give me a nice secure knot. same thing, pull it down one more time I can go ahead and trim out my thread and set that aside. we just have a little bit of trimming to go on these legs and we're pretty much set. make sure that that foam is right up on top of the hook itself looking super buggy. while these legs are still together. I'm going to pull them out. this is a this is a feel thing here guys. I want the front legs to be a little shorter than the back legs. I'm going to trim those there. I'm going to hold these back legs to just be on the back of the foam and trim them there now.
originally this fly was actually a crane fly is what it was meant to be and now we've kind of adapted a little bit more into fishing it for stone flies. really effective in both regards but important it kind of just gauge those legs where you want them and then I'm just going to go with the last piece here. I'm just going to split all those legs so if they haven't already come apart on you just split them right to the body of The Fly. we can go in there with just a little bit of solarez resin. we want to secure those last few thread wraps that we took on the underside. dab those there I'm using some bone dry by solarez. I'm going to cure that with my UV light. that is Rance's Gypsy King. a really good pattern. definitely suggest keeping this one in your box and fishing it some more. it is Tim here with Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters, and Thursday Night Live fly tying. this has been a quick tie blog, brought to you by Rocky Mountain Fly Shop.
Frenchie Nymph Fly Tying Recipe: |
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I am tying out our Season 5 material kits, but don't worry, if you head on over to her website (www.flyfishingbowriver.com/tnls5) you also are going to find a complete material list. If you don't have the materials with you, don't worry, you're going to be able to find what you need and probably the best place to do that is at www.rockymountainflyshop.net. Let's head over to the Norvise and let's get started.
So what we got here guys, we have a size 14 Dai-Riki # 60 hook. Before you put your hook on the norvise, make sure you have a 7/64 Gold tungsten bead on your hook. I'm going to be tying with some fluorescent pink. This is UTC 70. You could also use an 8/0, that would work well here as well. Before I put some thread on though, we're going to start with some lead wire. This is 0.15 lead wire. I'm going to put in three full wraps, okay no more than that otherwise we're going to use up too much space on this hook. I'm going to use Dana scissors to come in here and trim out that lead wire, but you'll see when you do that it leaves these little pieces that stick up, so it's really important to go in there and do your best whether you're using scissors or whatever it is to flatten that lead wire down against the hook. You want it to be nice and flat. You don't want there to be a massive bump there when you put your thread in and all your other materials. Slide that lead up against the bead, and that's going to help build some taper for us. It's going to be part of the thorax as we start building this fly. So let's take that UTC 70 fluorescent pink thread and start some thread wraps just behind those lead wrap. Then trim out that tag and then while I'm here I'm going to come up, and I'm going to put some light wraps first up over that wire, and then I'm going to start to put a few more tighter ones, and then I'll come back down the hook.
So what we got here guys, we have a size 14 Dai-Riki # 60 hook. Before you put your hook on the norvise, make sure you have a 7/64 Gold tungsten bead on your hook. I'm going to be tying with some fluorescent pink. This is UTC 70. You could also use an 8/0, that would work well here as well. Before I put some thread on though, we're going to start with some lead wire. This is 0.15 lead wire. I'm going to put in three full wraps, okay no more than that otherwise we're going to use up too much space on this hook. I'm going to use Dana scissors to come in here and trim out that lead wire, but you'll see when you do that it leaves these little pieces that stick up, so it's really important to go in there and do your best whether you're using scissors or whatever it is to flatten that lead wire down against the hook. You want it to be nice and flat. You don't want there to be a massive bump there when you put your thread in and all your other materials. Slide that lead up against the bead, and that's going to help build some taper for us. It's going to be part of the thorax as we start building this fly. So let's take that UTC 70 fluorescent pink thread and start some thread wraps just behind those lead wrap. Then trim out that tag and then while I'm here I'm going to come up, and I'm going to put some light wraps first up over that wire, and then I'm going to start to put a few more tighter ones, and then I'll come back down the hook.
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The first thing we're going to do, after getting our thread base down, is we're going to put in some tailing fibers for a tai.l This is traditionally done with some Coq De Leon. I'm going to take somewhere between probably eight and ten pieces. You're just looking for a little bit of a clump. These tails are going to be pretty light in color as well as they're not going to be a huge clump of material. After taking some off, I'm going to come in and grab the tails to get all the little fluff that might be on there out, and I'm going to come and measure out about a full hook length worth of material that is going to hang off the back of this fly. I'm going to transfer that down as my tail. I'm going to switch hands now. I'm going to Mark where that is against those lead wires, and then I'm going to cut the leftover tails. Now I'm going to lay that down on the hook, so just take that material lay it right down and do a nice securing wrap trying to keep that tail fiber right up on top of the hook. We're going to wrap the thread down just the edge of the bend of the hook. We don't want to go any farther otherwise that's going to cause the tail to aim straight down, and we want them to stick straight out of the hook. I bring my thread back to just behind the lead wire. Now we've got some size small gold wire (Brassie wire), this is going to be our ribbing on this fly. Now I'm going to come in here and I’m going to place this wire butting up against those lead wraps. I'm going to secure it on the side of the hook, and I'm going to take that down right to where I left my tail fiber, and I'm going to leave it out the back. So we've got our ribbon, we've got our tail in, now we're going to go over to the main body. The material going to be some pheasant tail. So grab yourself a healthy Clump, and you're going to again want somewhere, probably in that eight pieces Mark. You want a decent sized body. I've come in here with a fairly generous clump. I'm going to try to line up those tips the best I can and once I have, I'm just going to trim them out. Trim them flat, so they're all the same length, and then I'm going to tie these in right at that tail, so I can lay them forward a bit first. Take a wrap around the pheasant tail, and then I can pull back on those fibers to get them back to where I want them at the back of the fly. I'm just going to lock those in place and work my thread all the way forward to right behind the bead. Now I'm going to go ahead grab all that pheasant tail, and I'm slowly going to Palmer that forward, making sure I try to keep them together but also covering up all my work as I go. Watch out for that hook point; it can grab some pheasant tails. We're going to work those fibers all the way up to just behind the bead. Take your time, these aren't super long fibers, so they can slip out of your hands pretty easy. Hackle pliers aren't a terrible idea. Once I get up here to the head, I'm going to grab that material and lock it in place with my thread. If you were able to leave a little space behind the bead that's kind of Ideal because we have some dubbing we're going to put in there, if not, it's okay too we can wrap back over them. We're going to come in here and trim these out as close as we can, nice and smooth. I'm going to take a couple thread wraps just to make sure that's definitely locked in place and not going to come unraveled on me, that would be a bit of a frustrating thing to happen here now. I'm going to take my brassie wire rib, and come forward to protect those pheasant tails and give some segmentation to the body. There's two schools of thought here
1. I could either counter-wrap it or
2. I could wrap it the same direction
1. I could either counter-wrap it or
2. I could wrap it the same direction
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The issue with counter wrapping is when I go to secure my wire with my thread I'm going to be securing it in the wrong direction, and it has the probability of loosening the wire down the chain. So I'm going to go ahead, and I'm going to go the same direction that I put on that pheasant tail, just a nice equally spaced rib all the way up to where I left my thread. I'm going to secure that with a couple wraps behind, a couple wraps in front, and now you can either go ahead and helicopter that off, or go into some not so great scissors (Dana’s Scissors) and cut out that wire.
Only one more material left. We got this beautiful pink fluorescent UV dubbing, and we're going to take just a whisk, and I mean a whisk. We don't need much at all. Most people use way too much, so make sure you just grab a little bit. We're going to make a little bit of a dubbing noodle with that pink UV Dubbing. I'm going to come in here like we did last time on the Near Nuff Sculpin. Take that small pinch and spin it onto my thread. It shouldn't need any wax or anything on the thread. This stuff actually binds to the thread really well. Now I'm going to start making some wraps just behind that bead I want to make a nice thorax out of that pink dubbing, and then I'm going to bring my thread in front, and now we want to make a bit of a hot spot with just the Pink Fluorescent Thread. Seems kind of silly, but the pattern calls for a hot spot with hot pink even though there's pink dubbing. A way we can accomplish that is let's just overdo it on our whip finish, to be careful not to create too much bulk around the bead. I'm going to come in here with a whip finish just behind the bead. Normally we do three, let's go four five six wraps. That's going to create a little bit of a hot spot just behind that bead, and then I can come in here and snip that. If you like, you can go ahead and put just a little bit of resin on there. I'll use just a little bit of Bone Dry from Solarez. Just the tiniest touch on those thread wraps, and I'll come in here, and I'll cure it with my UV light. Give it a half a second so it cures.
Only one more material left. We got this beautiful pink fluorescent UV dubbing, and we're going to take just a whisk, and I mean a whisk. We don't need much at all. Most people use way too much, so make sure you just grab a little bit. We're going to make a little bit of a dubbing noodle with that pink UV Dubbing. I'm going to come in here like we did last time on the Near Nuff Sculpin. Take that small pinch and spin it onto my thread. It shouldn't need any wax or anything on the thread. This stuff actually binds to the thread really well. Now I'm going to start making some wraps just behind that bead I want to make a nice thorax out of that pink dubbing, and then I'm going to bring my thread in front, and now we want to make a bit of a hot spot with just the Pink Fluorescent Thread. Seems kind of silly, but the pattern calls for a hot spot with hot pink even though there's pink dubbing. A way we can accomplish that is let's just overdo it on our whip finish, to be careful not to create too much bulk around the bead. I'm going to come in here with a whip finish just behind the bead. Normally we do three, let's go four five six wraps. That's going to create a little bit of a hot spot just behind that bead, and then I can come in here and snip that. If you like, you can go ahead and put just a little bit of resin on there. I'll use just a little bit of Bone Dry from Solarez. Just the tiniest touch on those thread wraps, and I'll come in here, and I'll cure it with my UV light. Give it a half a second so it cures.
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This is a real simple fly, guys. You want to keep some of these in your box and have a dozen of them in a few different sizes. Change up that pheasant tail to different colors as well, and you'll make a true variation on this pattern. Once again this is Tim here with Fly Fishing Bow River Outfitters and Thursday Night Live fly tying, this has been another quick tie blog brought to you by Rocky Mountain Fly Shop. Don’t forget, everything over $99 is free shipping from them, so make sure to check them out! We will see you on the next pattern.
Author
Tim Hepworth
Kinder Gentler Mop Fly
HOOK:Scud/pupa hook (here a Dai-Riki #135), size 12
THREAD:Dark gray, 6/0 or 140-denier
BODY:Mottled gray segment from a mop or auto wash mitt
HEAD:Gray rabbit-fur dubbing
I want to welcome you back to another Quick Tie blog brought to you by our friends at Rocky Mountain Fly Shop (rockymountainflyshop.net). We are currently in season five episode one. Thursday Night Live Season 5 KitsThursday Night Live season five kits are still available on our Website, head on over to www.flyfishingbowriver.com/tnls5 and grab your kit today. I’ll be taking you through the “Kinder Gentler Mop Fly”, so go ahead and open your TNL season 5 kit and grab out your episode 1 package. If you don't have a kit, grab the materials listed above in the recipe. You will notice in your season 1 package you will have two fly bags inside, grab the one correctly labeled “Kinder Gentler Mop Fly”. Now let's head on over to my Norvise and get started on this fly.
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There are very few materials in this fly pattern which makes it quick and easy. We will get this Dai-Riki #135 scud hook secured in the jaws of the norvise, and get our Black UTC 140 started on the hook shank. It is important to use a bit thicker thread as I will be teaching you how to spin dubbing by splitting the thread.
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After starting the thread wraps behind the eye of the hook,we will work them forward to the hook barb and then take a couple wraps back towards the hook eye; let your thread hang at the hook point. We're going to then grab the tail piece, which is a piece off a car detailing mitt, and look at the cut end. You will find this material to be similar to chenille in that if it has a few core threads that we need to expose then tie in. Place the tail right on top of the hook where we left our thread and place a securing wrap to hold it right on top of the hook. Go ahead and take a few thread wraps forward to secure the middle strands of the tail and then come back to your tie in point.
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We're now going to see the importance behind choosing a thicker thread. We're going to counter spin our thread to flatten it out. You will notice if you over spin your thread it will cord it back up, so you have to find the happy medium point where the thread is flat and able to be split. Now with the thread on my finger I'll use my Shore bodkin or something pointed like my Shore whip finish tool and split the thread into equal parts. Slip your finger in between the two pieces of thread to hold your spot.
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While keeping your finger securely holding the thread grab the only other material in this pattern, your Hareline rabbit fur dubbing in the color gray. We should not need to use any dubbing wax to accomplish this split thread dubbing loop. Grab three equal small pinches of the dubbing and slide them in between the pieces of split thread. Once you feel you have the correct amount of dubbing placed, take your finger out of the thread and spread the dubbing out before you spin your bobbin.Now I'm going to go ahead and spin my Norvice Auto Bobbin until the materials spin up nicely. Now moisten your finger tip and pull the dubbing rearward as you start to palmar the dubbing loop up the hook shank towards the eye of the hook, and hopefully you run out of dubbing right as you arrive at the eye.
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Once we are at the eye of the hook take a couple extra wraps slightly rearward to secure the dubbing material. Now I will go ahead and grab my Shore Whip Finish tool and whip finish the fly. Two to three turns repeated twice will be plenty. Go ahead and snip your thread off. If you have it on your tying desk I recommend grabbing some Solarez Bone Dry resin and just put a small dab right over your whip finished thread. Go ahead and cure it with your Uv light.
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It doesn’t hurt to grab your favorite dubbing brush and just stroke the rabbit fur rearward back down the fly.
That right there my friends is the Kindler gentler mop fly, it's a very good imitation of a crane fly larva, and very effective. I suggest if you haven't already, add it to your repertoire and give it a try. We again want to thank Rocky Mountain Fly shop for bringing us this week's Quick tie. See you all soon for so many more great patterns from Season 5 of Thursday Night Live.
Author
Fly Tied by : Tim Hepworth
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